Hiking in the Haut-Var and Northern Verdon Gorges: The Complete Guide
The Haut-Var region and the northern rim of the Verdon Gorges form one of the most spectacular hiking destinations in southern France. With ochre limestone cliffs, turquoise river waters and perched medieval villages, this preserved corner of the Parc naturel régional du Verdon offers trails for every level — from easy family walks along the shores of Lac de Sainte-Croix to challenging ridge crossings high above the Grand Canyon.
This guide covers the must-do itineraries in the area, with practical information to help you plan your visit and make the most of every outing.
Understanding the Geography
The Verdon River originates in the Southern Alps and carves a canyon stretching more than 20 kilometres, reaching depths of up to 700 metres in places. The northern rim, accessible from Moustiers-Sainte-Marie or Castellane, sees far fewer visitors than the southern Corniche road — which is precisely where you'll find the best surprises.
The Haut-Var designates the lands south of the canyon, between Lac de Sainte-Croix and the Sainte-Baume massif. The villages of Bauduen, Les Salles-sur-Verdon, Aiguines and Trigance make excellent base camps for exploring on foot.
The trail network is dense and well-maintained, mixing GR (long-distance hiking routes), PR (short-distance routes) and lesser-known variants that help you escape summer crowds. Good footwear is essential: always bring sturdy hiking shoes — limestone terrain becomes very slippery when wet.
The 8 Best Hikes in the Area
1. Sentier Blanc-Martel — The Grand Canyon Traverse
This is the iconic hike of the Verdon Gorges. The Sentier Blanc-Martel starting from Rougon (19.3 km — 422 m elevation gain) crosses the gorges along the right bank, passing through tunnels carved into the rock, vertiginous viewpoints and cool shadowed sections deep in the canyon.
The walk is typically done in the Rougon → Mayreste direction (a shuttle service is recommended). It requires good physical fitness and a full day. Water is available at several points — but still carry at least 2 litres per person.
Our tip: Start early (before 8am in summer) to avoid the heat and tour groups. The bottom of the gorges can feel cool even in July — pack a light layer.
2. Mourre de Chanier and Rougon — The Wild Summit Viewpoint
For hikers seeking solitude and panoramic views, the Mourre de Chanier loop from Rougon (17.1 km — 951 m elevation gain) is an absolute must. At 1,930 m, the Mourre de Chanier is the highest point in the Verdon massif. On a clear day, the view stretches from the Alps to the Préalpes de Castellane.
This is a demanding route with limited waymarking in places. Bring an IGN map and ideally a GPS hiking watch to stay on track on the ridgelines.
3. Bauduen Loop — Around Lac de Sainte-Croix
More accessible, the Bauduen loop skirting Lac de Sainte-Croix (14.5 km — 275 m elevation gain) is perfect for families or hikers who want to mix walking with swimming. The turquoise waters of the lake create a striking contrast with the white limestone cliffs above.
The path passes through the village of Bauduen (swimming possible in summer, full amenities) with constant views over the water. In peak season, aim for a weekday to find quieter swimming spots.
4. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie Loop — The Starred Village and Its Ridges
Listed among the most beautiful villages in France, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is far more than a postcard image. The loop starting from the village (12 km — 416 m elevation gain) climbs quickly onto the ridges above the village, offering sweeping views over the lake and the first approaches of the gorges.
Along the way, you'll pass under the star suspended between the two cliffs framing the village — a quirky landmark that, according to legend, was hung by a knight returning from the Crusades.
5. Gorges de Trévans and Chapelle Saint-André
Lesser known than the Verdon but equally impressive, the Gorges de Trévans circuit (10.7 km — 469 m elevation gain) is a great alternative when the Grand Canyon is packed. The trail follows the Trévans stream between limestone walls before climbing to the Chapelle Saint-André, perched on a rocky spur with views across the Préalpes.
A fine route for shoulder season or overcast spring days.
6. Col de Plein Voir and Saint-Maurin Waterfall
For those who love combining elevation with cool water, the Col de Plein Voir circuit with the Saint-Maurin waterfall (10.5 km — 652 m elevation gain) is an excellent choice. The waterfall, fed by springs from the Valensole plateau, is particularly beautiful in spring and early summer.
The climb is sustained but steady. Trekking poles will prove their worth on the rocky descents.
7. Cadières de Brandis Loop
Little known to guidebooks, the Cadières de Brandis loop (7.8 km — 394 m elevation gain) is nonetheless one of the most beautiful geology walks in the area. The "cadières" (Provençal for "chairs") are staircase-like rock formations shaped by erosion, giving the landscape a unique stepped texture.
Slightly technical in places but very accessible in terms of distance. Perfect for a morning or late-afternoon outing.
8. Short Blanc-Martel Loop from Rougon
Want a taste of the gorges without committing to the full traverse? The short loop from Rougon (5.1 km — 241 m elevation gain) descends into the canyon along a section of the famous trail before returning via a variant. Ideal for families with children aged 8+ or a quick half-day outing.
Practical Tips for Hiking in the Haut-Var
Water: The Critical Issue
This is THE key concern in summer. Inside the gorges, the Verdon is accessible but its water must be filtered before drinking. Bring a portable water filter if you're planning long routes far from villages. On the plateaus, water points are scarce between June and September.
General rule: allow 1 litre per hour of walking in summer, plus a safety reserve.
Sun Protection
The white limestone of the gorges reflects UV rays strongly. Between direct sun and glare, sunburn can hit fast. A SPF 50+ sweat-resistant sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat are essential from May onwards.
When to Go?
- Spring (April–May): ideal — lush vegetation, full waterfalls, mild temperatures. Some risk of afternoon thunderstorms at altitude.
- Summer (June–August): the gorges are stunning but canyon temperatures regularly exceed 35°C in the afternoon. Departure before 8am is essential.
- Autumn (September–October): the favourite season for experienced hikers. Fewer crowds, lake still warm for swimming, beautiful golden light.
- Winter: possible on low-altitude routes (Bauduen loop, Moustiers), but the Sentier Blanc-Martel can be icy and dangerous.
Access and Parking
In peak season (July–August), car parks at popular trailheads (Rougon, Point Sublime) fill up by 8am. Arrive early or use the free shuttle services offered by some PNR Verdon communes.
Regulations in the Regional Natural Park
The PNR du Verdon enforces strict rules: no wild camping in the gorges (except with special authorisation), dogs on leads on marked trails, fires banned from June to September. Respect these rules to help preserve this exceptional landscape for future generations.
Where to Stay?
Castellane (eastern gateway to the gorges) and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie (western gateway) are the two main logistical bases. Campsites around Lac de Sainte-Croix offer an ideal setting for combining hiking and swimming. For more comfort, PNR gîtes often enjoy privileged locations and benefit from local hikers' knowledge.
To find the best trails around these bases, explore the OpenRando map which lists hundreds of validated GPX tracks in the area.
What to Pack
For a full day in the Verdon Gorges:
- Hiking shoes with Vibram soles (limestone is slippery)
- 2 to 3 litres of water minimum per person
- SPF 50+ sun cream and hat
- Lightweight waterproof jacket (storms build quickly on the plateau)
- Headlamp if you're taking the Blanc-Martel tunnels
- Fully charged phone with GPX track downloaded (coverage is poor in the gorges)
The Verdon Gorges and the Haut-Var are among the last great wilderness areas of south-east France — a region that deserves to be treated with care, and that will keep drawing you back time and again.
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